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Post by Ken K on Sept 16, 2011 19:06:07 GMT -5
Knuckle Head Move! I stripped the drain plug on the Outlander tonight changing the oil! Who's done it before and whats the theory on best way to recover?
My gut says to tap it and use a larger bolt but I'm worried that there might not be enough material left. (plus I don't have a tap and die set....would need to go buy one)
Another option would be to try one of those over sized rubber expanding jobs and hope it makes it through the week and deal with it when we get back.
I've read others believe in Helli arc....some don't and say they leak.
6 days till we leave and I'm in a bind. What does the TTB brain trust think?
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Post by DarylJ on Sept 16, 2011 19:20:17 GMT -5
Trade it in!
I have heard tap it and go up on size also. And I have heard of people using a helicoil with good luck also. Sorry I know it doesn't help but I don't see many other choices.
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Post by tomdesena on Sept 16, 2011 20:01:39 GMT -5
Well Ken there is always next year!!!!! --- Nooooooooooooo
I looked at the forums which I guess you have also -- and seems drill and tap is best way -- saw a kit for about $95 -- steep price -- And sorry I have not had this issue and not sure what will work and get you through the week
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Post by Bob T on Sept 16, 2011 20:13:17 GMT -5
I know the Autozone near me sells the expanding rubber plugs and I have also seen a kit that has the heli-coil.
I would try the rubber plug this weekend and see how it works and Monday I would take the whole machine to a machine shop and have them fix it. They can tip it up on end to get to it. Look this weekend for machine shops near you. If Allen sees this he might know of a machine shop with all the equipment he has.
Is there any way to fix the stripped threads?
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Post by Bob T on Sept 16, 2011 20:33:18 GMT -5
I would go to every auto supply store I could tomorrow and see what the have and talk to them. They might have some thread cutters. Take a picture so we can see it. I have some tap and dies, let us know what the size is.
Here are options I have read about
Heli-coil - biggest issue is that it has to be put in square and may come out next time you remove the oil plug. People seem to be on both sides of use them.
Weld a nut onto the block. Would have to have clearance.
Expanding rubber plug - if you have enough clearance were it would not get knocked off it will probably work. On my 850 it would hang below the skid and get knocked off.
Supposedly something called a plug in a plug. I think the outer plug is cuts its own threads when you install it.
Can you clean the existing threads.
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Post by Lonnie W on Sept 16, 2011 22:15:12 GMT -5
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Post by Randy_R on Sept 16, 2011 22:30:09 GMT -5
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Post by Drew RZR 800 on Sept 16, 2011 23:00:52 GMT -5
Need to put you finger in the hole to see what you have clearence for .... personaly if there is enough machine edge I would tap and new bolt ( cause that is the way it was to begin with ) . If I remember right Heli coils are steel and your case is alum so there is a chance for a leak as the two metals act different to heat . Are the threads completely gone ? I would call you dealer as they probably have done this or repaired this also and may have a fix already for ya .
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Post by Ken K on Sept 17, 2011 5:48:49 GMT -5
Thanks Guys. This really pissed me off but the more I look around the more common it seems. I scoured the web last night as well as the local auto parts stores and basically agree with what you guys said. Helicoil looks iffy and I don't think I'll go that route. Long term I'm going to put a Timesert in it. Found that last night and did a bunch of reading on it and looks to be the way to go, although not cheap....but that's usually the case. Short term I may be OK. I picked up an over-sized, self-tapping plug last night and it went in perfect and tightens up fine. Stock plug is 12 x1.50 and I found a 12 x 1.75. Feels great so far but I didn't put oil in it to check for leaks last night cause it was late but I'll do that today. I'm actually going to dump a few quarts of cheapo oil through it to try and flush any metal bits but I feel pretty confident that I got them all out already. Also going to grab one of the rubber expanding plugs. There is plenty of clearance for it under the skid plate so that wouldn't be an issue. Gonna through it in the bag for "just in case". Got football this morning so won't know for sure till later this afternoon but I'm hoping I'm good to go again. Thanks for the help, I was really stressing last night. I was even formulating plans on how I was going to put a set up knobbies on the DR and take that as my backup plan!
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Post by Drew RZR 800 on Sept 17, 2011 7:25:35 GMT -5
I would pick up a rubber plug just incase you have a failure , this would get you back to camp , these machines are getting so heavy that being dragged back thru trail is almost not a option . Years ago riding at Jerry's place , my oil bolt fell out and lost all my oil ( my dumb fault ) but interesting fix , one of the guys shaved the bark off of a Green limb and we screwed up in the hole , another guy had a quart of oil , I finished the day with a stick as a oil plug .
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Post by Bob T on Sept 17, 2011 9:35:34 GMT -5
Ken, it appears that the old and new plug are both 12mm diameter, the only difference is the new one is a finer thread pitch. I would definitely get the rubber stopper and bring a whittling knife.
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Post by Wiley M on Sept 17, 2011 9:40:14 GMT -5
Ken, I stripped mine as well and I've been fighting getting it fixed and not leaking. I used an oversized 12 plug and tried various washers but still leaked. What I found for now that works until I can find a perm fix is using blue Loctite on the lower spreads and let set overnight then fill with oil. It hasn't leaked since I did that.
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Post by Wiley M on Sept 17, 2011 11:39:42 GMT -5
First I've seen on the Timesert, definitely looks like the way to go I'll order me a kit when I get back from Utah and try it out.
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Post by David B on Sept 17, 2011 13:18:04 GMT -5
Custom green stick oil plugs for sale. De-barked and cut to length for your machine. These are handmade by someone who uses sharp edged tools to make a living. Only $75 each.. a deal!! Can be stained to match the color of your Canam...I mean your machine. Contact DOC at BR-549
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Post by Drew RZR 800 on Sept 17, 2011 14:23:16 GMT -5
Custom green stick oil plugs for sale. De-barked and cut to lenght for your machine. These are handmade by someone who uses sharp edged tools to make a living. Only $75 each.. a deal!! Can be stained to match the color of your Canam...I mean your machine. Contact DOC at BR-549 But soon there after your machine will roll over showing off it new "Implant " ..... with comments like " I got Wood " and " Its huge " ....
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Post by Allen S on Sept 18, 2011 18:21:52 GMT -5
Knuckle Head Move! I stripped the drain plug on the Outlander tonight changing the oil! Who's done it before and whats the theory on best way to recover? My gut says to tap it and use a larger bolt but I'm worried that there might not be enough material left. (plus I don't have a tap and die set....would need to go buy one) Another option would be to try one of those over sized rubber expanding jobs and hope it makes it through the week and deal with it when we get back. I've read others believe in Helli arc....some don't and say they leak. 6 days till we leave and I'm in a bind. What does the TTB brain trust think? get rid of it there is a silver grizzly for sale real close to where you live.
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joe p
Novice Trail Rider
Posts: 75
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Post by joe p on Sept 19, 2011 9:43:41 GMT -5
McMaster-Carr located in Atlanta, Ga carries just about everything imaginable. Free shipping and no Tax. 12mm x 1.5 helical Kit $46.56 just for reference. We use smaller coils at work in aluminum fixtures to keep from stripping threads when torque down.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2011 9:54:49 GMT -5
My personal preference is the Heli-Coil. It is a stainless steel insert that is much stronger than the aluminum case. Make sure that it is not longer than the hole wall is deep, or you could have issues draining the oil in the future. Use red loc-tite to lock it in place and don't run the drain plug back in until it is completely dry. Be sure that you drill the hole as perpendicular as possible to the sealing surface or you may have to use an extra rubber washer to ensure a proper seal.
The Time-Sert would work great as long as there is enough flange area to allow a proper seal.
I would definitely not do the oversize drill and tap option. Once it has been stripped, it does not do well with an oversize plug, and if it strips again.........then you are in danger of not having enough material to repair it again.
If the Heli-Coil is done properly, it will be there from now on.
Good luck!
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Post by Matt H (aka Tiger Rag) on Sept 19, 2011 15:41:27 GMT -5
Trade it in! I have heard tap it and go up on size also. And I have heard of people using a helicoil with good luck also. Sorry I know it doesn't help but I don't see many other choices. Hello, my name is Matt H and I'm a drain plug stripper too. HI, MATT! I did it on my Grizzly on the front differential. Not looking at it right side up messed me up.....the righty tighty, lefty loosy don't work too good upside down. Anyway, I tapped it and went up a plug size. Harbor Freight has reasonably priced tap and dye sets. I would't be afraid of a heli-coil either, they work just fine.
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Post by Bob T on Sept 19, 2011 18:43:54 GMT -5
Do drain plug strippers use poles?
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