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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2006 6:00:05 GMT -5
For all of you like me, who like reading really long articles on nothing but motor oil, this is an excellent read.
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Post by Bob T on Aug 17, 2006 17:39:53 GMT -5
OK, I'll bite. Where is the read.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2006 6:22:34 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2006 6:54:47 GMT -5
Only thing I didn't like about that article is they did not cover the whole wet clutch issue and full synthetic automobile oils. I do know that auto oils have friction modifiers, and supposedly those friction modifiers will cause a wet clutch to slip and burn up. And since auto engines don't have clutches in them they don't have to worry about such things. And synthetic oils in general do provide higher resistance to thermal break-down, thats really the only reason I run full synthetic in my 300 because of my big bore which will run considerably hotter than a stock motor.
A good read though, because as far as comparing auto oil to motorcycle oil, its a big hype except for the whole clutch issue I believe.
Conventional motorcycle oil is no better than conventional automotive oil. Same for the synthetics except for the whole friction modifier deal.
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Post by brutus on Feb 24, 2007 0:21:49 GMT -5
Just my two cents, I had a 660 Grizzly and only used Castrol 10w30 and put over 2000 miles on it in two years. Never had a engine problem. I now use the same oil in my Brute. One thing I do do it use a little DuraLube in my bikes when I first get them. Use it in my autos as well.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2007 7:54:01 GMT -5
Just my two cents, I had a 660 Grizzly and only used Castrol 10w30 and put over 2000 miles on it in two years. Never had a engine problem. I now use the same oil in my Brute. One thing I do do it use a little DuraLube in my bikes when I first get them. Use it in my autos as well. You can use any automotive conventional oil, most of them don't have friction modifiers like the synthethic, so conventional oil is usually fine in a atv or bike. Its the automotive synthetics you have to be careful about, if it has the energy conserving label on it then you don't wanna use it in your wet clutch. Which your grizzley doesn't have anyway, so it probably wouldn't hurt anything.
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Post by willy on Feb 24, 2007 10:21:35 GMT -5
This is an interesting and informative topic and a subject that has warranted much research throughout the years. When do you reach a point of diminishing return on cost Vs engine life on a low reving ATV? Here is what I found: Point 1: Any oil will lubricate. It never wears out, only self destructs thru heat and ingestion of outside matter (dirt, metal particles) Point 2: Other than to lubricate, oils dissipate heat. Dirty oil will not dissipate heat like clean oil. Point 3: Friction modifiers are clearly identified on the back of the oil container within the government grade circle. If it has "Energy conserving" in the lower quadrant such as in most 10w-30's, do not use that oil in any automatic clutch. If the lower quadrant is blank such as in 10w-40, then it is fair game to use in any automatic clutch. Point 4: ATV and motorcycle manufacturers want you to buy the recommended high dollar oil. That is how they make their accessory money. Point 5: Bottom line is you can use any manufacturers oil in your automatic clutch ATV as long as the grading circle on the back of the container is "Blank".. Personally I buy bulk oil anyplace I can find it on sale (10w-40), Buy oil filters anywhere I can cross reference them, normally Napa, Advance or any auto parts store and change my oil in my Honda every third or forth ride. Perhaps an overkill but then I always have fresh clean oil in my motor, saved a bunch over high priced "special oils" and have the satisfaction my motor will last until who knows when !! Presently I have over 10,000 miles on my Honda and not a sign of engine wear, smoke or lubrication related problems. So, I guess you can spend big bucks on oil, stretch it a long time between oil changes or spend less and do the same thing by changing it more often. Personally, I like clean, fresh oil in my Honda. Hope this adds to the equation of the "who,what, when and why's" of the oil saga's Willy
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2007 18:24:39 GMT -5
The way I see it with my ATV, you cant go wrong using the factory recommended oil from the dealer. Yes its over priced but its also not as mass produced as auto oil you find on the shelf at every auto store, wal mart and Kmart across the nation. Typically you will need to buy only two quarts per oil change and at best it gets changed twice a year, really not much of a cost at the end of the year considering the machine costs 6 to 8 grand.
As for my truck i have my opinions on what is the best engine oil available, which is supported through years of opening engines up for repair.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2007 22:29:00 GMT -5
I use Mobil 1 full synthetic motorcycle oil, the only reason I prefer it is because it is full synthetic and my bike has a 82cc big bore kit in it, which means it runs hotter and works under more stress, and everyone knows heat kills, both oil and the motor. So I know my motor runs hot so it will break down conventional oil much quicker, so I use synthetic to prevent that. In a stock machine, conventional changed at good intervals is fine in my opinion.
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